El post d’inici de temporada havia de ser especial. Com molts ja sabeu, el viatge enguany era a l’Iran, bressol de cultures i amb una llarga tradició gastronòmica. Malauradament un mal pas a Shiraz va enviar enlaire la meva aventura, un peroné, els lligaments de la tíbia i els estalvis de l’estiu.
Reclosa a casa, no he pogut fer altra cosa que mirar amb nostàlgia i enveja les imatges del viatge que van poder fer els meus companys. Tanmateix, just abans de ser repatriada, vaig deixar una llista de la compra encarregada amb els ingredients que havia volgut comprar. I fa un parell de dies els meus àngels de la guarda (Gràcies Mani, Núria, Anna Rosa i Jordi) me la van portar a casa. I supera totes les meves expectatives !
La cuina iraní és saborosa, gens picant, plena de matisos i amb ingredients ben particulars. Mes endavant posaré en pràctica les receptes del llibre Iran. Receptes i costums gastronòmics de Quico Alsina i la Ana Maria Briongos, però avui us parlaré dels meravellosos condiments que em van portar.
Una de les coses que sorprèn més quan menges a l’Iran són els arrossos, ja que hi posen safrà, pell de taronja confitada, aranyons o festucs. Com a exemple podeu veure la recepta de l’
arròs enjoiat (Javaher poló) que és serveix en casaments i que pren el seu nom dels diversos condiments que acompanyen l’arròs (safrà, taronja, baies, festucs i ametlles) que recorden els topazis, robis, maragdes i perles.
Doncs anem a veure quins tresors m’han portat:
El
safrà (crocus sativus) és omnipresent en la cuina persa i malgrat el seu cost elevat s’utilitza en moltes preparacions, tan dolces com salades. És un ingredient imprescindible de arròs que acompanya qualsevol dinar, però el trobem també en dolços i gelats com podem veure en aquesta recepta de
gelat de safrà i agua de roses.
La pell de taronja confitada tot i no ser exclusiva de la cuina persa, s’utilitza de forma singular amb arròs, el que s’anomena arròs dolç (Shirin poló) que també es un plat que acompanya als estofats en ocasions festives.
Les baies vermelles, semblants als aranyons pero que son els fruits de l’aladern fals, o zeresck en farsi. En anglès s’anomenen barberries i el nom tècnic és el Berberis vulgaris. S’’hidraten i utilitzen en diverses preparacions culinàries. La mes popular és l’arròs amb baies vermelles (Zereshk poló) del que dono fe que estava deliciós.
Un segon grup molt singular de condiments son els pètals de flor, com els hibiscos i les roses. La flor d’hibisc salvatge (hibiscos sabdariffa) és completament comestible i te un gust aromàtic i àcid. Es pot utilitzar en infusions, fent melmelada o en amanides, entre altres. A l’Orient mitjà s’utilitza principalment en infusió i es diu que te propietats afrodisíaques, per la qual cosa en alguns països les dones tenen prohibit beure’n. He trobat que es pot posar al fons d’una copa de cava i en contacte amb ell, obre els seus pètals creant un efecte impressionant.
Els pètals de rosa també tenen un lloc d’honor a la cuina iraní. Es creu que l’
aigua de roses va ser creada pels químics musulmans a l’edat mitjana, concretament el matemàtic persa Avicena en el segle X. L’aigua de rosa s’utilitza principalment en dolços i pastisseria, encara que pot formar part de d’altre tipus de preparació, com la llimonada o plats de pollastre. El tipus de rosa més habitual és la Rosa damascena que prové de l’Iran Central.
El tercer grup de condiments son específics de la cuina persa. En primer lloc la melassa de magrana. Es creu que la magrana és originària de Pèrsia i que el seu cultiu es va anar estenent als pobles veïns. La melassa de magrana es un concentrat de suc de magrana, que es va coent i concentrant fins aconseguir un xarop molt espès. És l’ingredient principal del Koresh Fesenjan, guisat de pollastre amb el xarop de magrana i nous, que serveix acompanyat de tradicional arròs blanc amb safrà (txeló)
Un altre producte molt típic son les
petites llimes seques (Loomi) que també s’anomenen “Black limes”. Es fan bullint llimes fresques en aigua i sal i desprès deixant-les assecar al sol fins que s’enfosqueixin. Es poden utilitzar senceres (en guisats de carn o peix) o en pols (sobretot en arrosos i salses). En pols és un dels ingredients del baharat o kabsa (curry persa).
Si es fan servir senceres, cal rentar-les i punxar-les amb un ganivet per afavorir que aromatitzi el guisat. Si es vol tenir en pols, s’han de partir, treure les llavors i triturar-les amb un molinet de cafè.
Finalment, parlarem del Baharat o curri persa que és una combinació de diverses espècies. Varia la seva composició en cada país de la zona del Golf Pèrsic encara que les especies bàsiques són pebre negre, llavors de cardamom, clau, canyella en pols, llavors de coriandre i de comí, nou moscada i pimentó roig. A Pèrsia s’incorpora també la llima seca en pols i el safrà.
Com veieu,aquest ventall de meravelles obre un gran nombre de possibilitats gastronòmiques que prometo anar publicant tan bon punt el meu turmell em permeti tornar a posar-me als fogons. Fins llavors, gaudiu de les imatges, imagineu les olors i els sabors i deixeu-vos bressolar per la música.
Bon inici de temporada bloguera !
A la Banda sonora, avui una música energètica per encarar el primer dia de setembre amb bon humor. All Right Now, dels Free. (Gràcies pel suggeriment, Juanan. Els clàssics no fallen mai )
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